Small trip to Jammu & Kashmir: Kuch khatti-kuch meethi yaaden:
It was a planned trip for J&K in June 2015. Yes, we were aware of probable rains during this trip being June month; however, we were prepared for it mentally. The trip was from 22nd June to 26th June, too less days to cover too much of "Paradise on Earth". However main aim of the trip was holy visit to Maa Vaishnodevi and few days off the home.
Day-1: Jammu Tawi to Katra
We reached Jammu Tawi station on 22nd, early morning at 5.10AM. Our vehicle was well there at station for pick up and drop to Katra (foothills of Vaishnodevi).
We reached Katra by 7.30AM, checked in Hotel AP Broadway. Luckily there was no rain on the day and sky was clear, ideal for climbing up to "BHAWAN".
After getting fresh at hotel room, we were ready for trekking. Hotel manager arranged vehicle for drop us at "BANGANGA CHECK POST", the point up till any vehicle can go and after that only four methods are available to reach at top. First take Helicopter, chances of getting ticket is negligible as bookings are done 60 days in advance. Yes, if you are railway officer, military officer or other government officer, it can be arranged for.
Second take a palkhi, third take a pony ride and fourth, take a walk. Rates are fixed, and displayed at regular places, near Banganga check post and at Bhawan also. Pony ride to one side costs 700Rs for one adult.
We chose to take pony ride uphill as by walk we would not be able to go and come back by evening. We had to move to Pahalgam next day morning.
We started from Banganga on pony after getting "yatra parchi" checked at Banganga. Yatra Parchi (Travel Slip) can be obtained at bus stand counter before Banganga, or can be booked on line from Vaishnodevi organization website. We had online yatra parchi in advance. Even we have online yatra parchi, same needs to be checked and other slip is issued at Banganga check post.
Climbing by pony is quite comfortable if you don’t have problem of sitting for long time. It was a wordless experiences climbing up and reaching to Mata's Bhawan step by step. It was a holy experience combined with scenic view of hills and river and pleasant weather. The pathway is well made and maintained and is provided with shelters all the way possible. Still the work was going on to make it summer and rain comfortable way to BHAWAN. There is a separate path for foot climbers and pony/palkhi. But at some places its mix path, creating discomfort to on foot devotees. However its manageable. There are lots of shops and rest shelters for devotees, so no need to take much luggage/water/food while climbing. All is available on the way. Just carry good amount of cash, preferable in 10rs. and 20 rs. Notes.
We reached at Bhawan by 12.30PM, after almost 4 hrs. of pony ride with one single break at middle of the way.
There was a long-unmanaged queue for final checking and towards Bhawan and holy cave. Remember to deposit all leather items, mobile, camera, shoe etc at clock room as nothing is allowed inside the Cave or Bhawan.
After holy darshan, we proceeded for Bhairav nath temple, still uphill from Vaishnodevi Bhawan. We reached there at 2PM. After darshan, we started back to Katra on same pony. (we had asked them to wait for us, rather than selecting other pony)
We were back at Katra by 6PM.
Coming down on pony is not as comfortable as climbing as you have to lean backwards continuously while pony is climbing down to maintain balance.
With holy image of Maa Vaishnodevi in eyes and pleasant view of hills in heart, we returned to hotel. After getting fresh, had our dinner at hotel itself as it was tiring day at long.
Day-2: 23rd June: To Pahalgam
We knew that the travel time from Katra to Pahalgam is about 6 hrs. So we planned to leave early in the morning. We called the driver at 5.00AM at hotel and we left for Pahalgam.
Kashmir, as it is portrait in much advertisement being the Paradise on earth, is not really remained so nowadays. It is gripped by strikes, rallies, protests, Road jams etc. Rather than comfort of tourist who come thinking of paradise, people here think more about earning money. The paradise has been commercialized a lot, which is taking away its charm.
Local tour operators are just trying to make out money by any mean. However, we had booked our trip in advance so, there was no worry about money and it was almost a cash less trip as all was paid in advance.
On the way to Pahalgam, it was a magnificent view of mountains and rivers. After a whole year in concrete jungle, this away from work trip was really changing the mood. It was refreshing. On the way we fed our cameras with beauty of natural hills and water sources. Small waterfalls are very common scene throughout the way, giving a wordless experience being at the nature at its best.
However, nature would also cry after seeing its humans being worst at the same time. There was a jam on the way near to Anantnag. We came to know that locals are protesting and throwing stones on tourist vehicles. On our way there were many vehicles of army and also of Amarnath devotees and Bhandaras, moving towards Pahalgam. As Pahalgam is the base of Holy Amarnath yatra, which is to be started at 2nd July, these military vehicles and Amarnath yatra vehicles were moving to Pahalgam for setting up facilities for upcoming Yatra.
But as there was stone pelting by locals, all tourist vehicles were returning back. We even saw military vehicles also, moving back from the protest area, really surprising and disappointing. Poor tourists.
However, our driver knew some local in village roads to bypass the protested are and alternate way to Pahalgam. However, we wasted 3-4 hours in this as coming out of long queue of vehicles and finding and passing through alternate path was not easy.
Near to reaching Pahalgam, we had magnificent view of Lidder river streams shadowed by green tall hills, truly awesome view.
At local water falls, the water was chill cold and we enjoyed washing face and drinking natural cold water, a unique experience.
We reached Pahalgam by 4.30PM. By we reached the rain had started slowly, making the view more pleasant. A river passing in front of the hotel, background by Green hills, clouds touching the hills, white snow at far peak of hills and a cold chilling fresh breeze, a real paradise is called nothing else.
We checked in hotel and after getting fresh, we enjoyed the fantastic view of Dream World, River, water, fresh breeze and snowy mountains.
Having hot dinner in bone chilling weather with view of paradise was ......... um..... No WORDS TO DESCRIBE..... One has to experience by own.
There was no fan/AC in hotel Room, as they don’t require it as weather is always chilling here from Jan to Dec.
With the sound of river water, pitch dark area and local folk songs sung a far away it was a unforgettable moment. If we are made free of all responsibilities of work and life, there is no other way to enjoy the life other than becoming a shepherd and passing rest of life here.
Day-3: 24th June: To Srinagar
With no willingness of leaving this paradise, we left for Srinagar at 8.30AM after having breakfast at hotel.
We reached Srinagar by 12.30PM. As it was raining all the way, it was adding to enjoyment in otherwise boring car ride. We had several stops in between the way to Srinagar to take selfies with Mother Nature. We visited apple field, Akhrot fields etc on the way.
Rest of the day we had to be in hotel as it was raining heavily outside.
Day-4: 25th June: Local Srinagar
What an awesome day we had today, visiting local Srinagar.
As we had wasted half day on day-3 due to rain, we were determined to make it up today as rain had stopped at local Srinagar. We woke up and got ready at 6.00AM. Without waiting for hotel to make the breakfast ready, we moved out for local Srinagar trip. Driver also, supported and joined us at our timings.
We first went to Nishat Garden, but we were told that it would open at 8.30AM, however we were advised to climb the small wall and enter garden. But we did not break rules.
We proceeded for Shankaracharya temple as it was only the place open by 6.00AM. Driver took us to hill top at Shankaracharya temple, as it was early morning and last night it rained all the way, the roads were wet and were adding to nature's best. Heavy fog on the way to uphill was like we were passing through the clouds.
We reached to temple, left out electronics at car itself, as nothing is allowed at temple and is guarded by Indian army. After checking we were allowed to climb steps to uphill to temple. Due to fig, one was not able to see more than 10 steps away. This was giving an experience like we were moving towards the cloud home. It was also bone chilling weather. We were fully equipped with woolen clothes, even we were shivering. After 15 mins we reached at top. It was more chilling at top and also we had to leave our shoes before entering into temple premises. Our feet were like on ice cubes. After darshan at Shankaracharya we moved back to foot hills at Dal lake road.
By the time of Shankaracharya Visit gardens were open and we visited the gardens one by one, from Chasm-e-Shai, Tulip garden to other Moughal gardens and Pari Mahal. One can have a feel of being a royal king and having morning walk at his own garden. Well maintained, well planned gardens left us speechless. We fed our cameras with picture of flower, landscapes, green belts and waterfalls.
After having breakfast near the Dal Lake, we proceeded to most awaited SHIKARA RIDE.
We took one shikara and went on ride. Rates for each type of rides are displayed on the every entry points to Dal Lake. We had this ride as a part of our tour package. It was kingly experience of riding shikara and enjoying cool breeze of Dal Lake. Our Shikara guide took us to various points on dal lake and told us about places where many movies were shot including mission Kashmir, Jab tak hai Jaan and many song sequences.
We also visited floating markets, floating vegetables farming etc.
However, the world famous Dal Lake has also been gripped in commercial race. It seems government has left this poor lake in hands of local house boat owners or Shikara operators. Poor condition, a lot of Shikara and house boats, nearly spoiling the purpose of lake. We felt pity for this.
After a 2.30hr ride we came back to Dal lake road. Shamiyana, one of the best places to have lunch if you are at Dal lake visit. Awesome food and ambience compared to other restaurants.
After late breakfast (at 3.30PM) we decided to move back to hotel for some rest and come back in evening for more fun.
By the evening news were around that landslides have taken place on the way from Srinagar to Jammu and the only surface link between Srinagar to Jammu was closed. We had to leave for Jammu next day for our onwards journey.
Our tour operator informed us that we would have to be in Srinagar for one or two days more out of our schedule due to landslides and fear of flood in Srinagar. We were really terrified. We verified by local persons, hotel staffs and local news websites. The situation was not good. With the fear and uncertainty of our next move we passed the night at hotel.
Day-5: 26th June: Time to leave:
Due to heavy rains in up hills area the Jhelum was flowing above danger mark and several places water had come into city, blocking the roads and disconnecting us from reaching Jammu. We were in fear, but not panic. Our driver also denied leaving Srinagar due to water logging, landslides and Srinagar Jammu highway closure.
However, rain had stopped from morning and Indian army and BOARDER ROAD Organization were on work to clear the highway. After our research and locals we convinced driver to leave to Jammu, whatever happens we would bear, without fear.
We crossed three water submerged roads. It was thrilling and fearsome experience, passing the vehicular jams on roads. We took many alternate ways throughout the journey, avoiding highway maximum possible. Thanks to Google maps, as we travelled through many village areas internal roads, roads were small, bouncy, wet and in poor conditions. But in this emergency time, these were quite helpful.
Last day we had kept for some shopping at Srinagar, like dry fruits, keshar etc. However, in that condition we were thinking of only coming out of J&K by any means and nothing else.
J&K has yet not learned its lesson from last year’s flood situation. Hope god help poor locals gripped under only commercialization and have converted this once a paradise o Tourism business only.
Somehow we reached Udhampur (one stop before Jammu from Srinagar) to catch our night train well on time. Thanks to BRO (Boarder Road Organization) for clearing the highway most possible in time.
It was a rich experience as shared above. Hope the condition of Local J&K improves and it’s made a paradise once again as we have seen in 80s and 90s movies.
Thanks for reading...